Villancicos... or not

After the success of the ballet, I thought that going to a Christmas carol concert could be a good idea.  Only another 3€ or so, and all going to charity.  Besides, after singing carols at school every Christmas, and being in a band that went carolling every Christmas, without carols (for me) it doesn't feel like Christmas.  And it seemed like a good chance to experience carols in a Spanish style.

Well.  It certainly was a new experience, I must say.

It was a little bit like those sets of images doing the rounds on facebook at the moment.

What we thought we were getting.

What we actually got.

I conned my flatmates into going, and one commented as we went in that she felt like we had walked into a school concert.  It was almost all family groups, so we felt a bit out of place.

And then it began.  It certainly was a mixed bag.

There were plenty of groups of little ones, who were adorable in their ruffly, spotted, mini flamenco dresses, stomping about to those aggressive flamenco-style carols that only Spain could produce!

What initally looked like a rather sheepish bunch of 8 to 10-year-old kids gave an impressive performance for their age.  A girl of about 8 years took the lead, and what a voice!  Plus, some of boys showed some real rhythm with the characteristic hand-clapping.  They must have grown up tocando palmas.

And then, the crowning glory... the compañeros de Vilches.  This was actually a nice change (at the start) as it was a group of about 15 adult males, and they had various guitar-like, strung instruments, which hadn't appeared so far in the concert.  And their first song was completely different to all of the others we had heard, with a very slow, accentuated beat, and Arabic-sounding trills between notes.
Their second song was just like the first.  And so was the third.
When they finished, everyone clapped for quite a long time.  So they came on and did a fourth.  Guess what it sounded like?  Well, it had a very slow, accentuated beat, and Arabic-sounding trills between notes.

At this stage, we decided we had had our share of villancicos for the day.
Well, at least we have now experienced a (kind of) Spanish carol service.

I just found this... Not at all funny unless you speak Spanish and know the 'Peces en el Rio' villancico.  But, if you do, it really is quite funny!

A Christmas Carol: Ballet in La Carolina

Christmas has long gone, but better late than never, right?

Before Christmas, there was one afternoon in which the kids at school were totally hyper, as there had been some kind of sports event in the morning, and they were truly incapable of working during the last hour of the day.  So, the teacher I was with decided we could at least do something useful, and got them to practise their English by asking me questions.

As soon as one girl found out that I liked dancing, she started trying to sell me tickets to her ballet recital.  However, there were two in the class dancing in the same show, and both wanted to sell me a ticket...  Luckily for me, the teacher solved my dilemma by telling me that she'd already bought about 5 tickets from one of the girls, so I let the other make the great sale of one ticket to me.

My friend, the teacher whose class I was in, told me that I wouldn't regret going to the show, and she was certainly right.  I wasn't expecting to see something of such a high level in little old La Carolina.  As it turns out, we have quite a few talented dancers here!

There were the little ones, who were extremely cute - you could see how they were watching their leader to copy the moves.  Unfortunately, I don't seem to have pictures of them.  Here are the smallest ones that I found...

Then they got a bit bigger, and more complicated...

And, finally, the big kids.  These guys knew what they were doing!

Best 3€ I've spent in a long while!

¿Qué?

I've decided to do some shorter entries with those little 'ah, Spain' moments that I have, instead of trying to do longer and more serious ones.  Because, when I try that, I never end up doing any blogging...

So, today's thing is: Spain, possibly the only country in the world where it is considered friendly to greet someone with ¿Qué? ('What?')

This turn of phrase rather amuses me.  I think it's possibly a contracted form of ¿Qué tal? or ¿Qué pasa? (What's up?/What's happening?).  Anywho, I've had it said to me a number of times, pretty much as a conversation starter.

I can just imagine if I tried this in NZ.

*friend walks up*
Me: What?
Friend: What? *looks around* What?  What do you mean, 'what'? *backs away*

Ten Reasons to Visit La Carolina

This is an Andalucian tv programme which visits all kinds of little places and explains to all us tv viewers why we should go there.  The particular episode in the link is in my 'pueblo.'  All in Spanish, but good to watch a bit to get a feel for what the town is like!

December in La Caro, And Some Things I've Learned About Spain

Considering I've been super-slack in updating my blogs about everyday life around here, it would be good to make a start before I take off to travel around with my parents!

La Carolina is feeling more and more like home!  Work is ticking along, and I somehow fill up my days with playing the piano at the local music school, doing language exchanges, helping people out with English, and plenty of tapas.

I've learned a few things about Spain, too...

• Don't expect to get anything useful done between about 3 and 5pm, especially if you're in a small town.  It's lunch/siesta time.
• Don't expect to get anything useful done before about 9am (possibly even 10).  For example, our nearest supermarket doesn't open until 9.15am, and very few corner stores will be open before then either.
• Don't expect to get anything useful done on Sunday.  The only thing you can do is go out and have tapas, because bars are the only things which are open.  What a shame.
• If you want to go to the bank or the post office, do not leave it until the afternoon.  They shut for siesta and don't re-open until the next morning.  These need to be your priorities when doing morning errands!

That whinge aside, the positives definitely outweigh the inconveniences.

Patatas bravas.

• People here are extremely open and friendly.  Perhaps I just got really, really  lucky with the school I was placed in, but the teachers are always chatting to me, inviting me out for tapas, etc, etc.
• Spanish people know how to party!  All day, and all night, as the song says.
• It doesn't actually cost too much to go out for drinks and tapas with friends.  Andalucia: what can I say?  Sheer brilliance.
• Neither is it too expensive to rent a flat, buy your fresh fruit and veg, or travel by bus.
• Patatas bravas.  They taste great.
• Sure, Spanish people can be direct.  But it means that you'll get told you look 'guapo/a' far more often than you ever would in an anglo-saxon culture.

Another amusing aspect is their obsession with jamón.  I don't think I've ever seen a culture with such a fixation on one of its staple foods. 
I admit, I've tried enough jamón to understand why they're so obsessed, but it's still amusing.  I'll try to prove why...

• I was taken to a ham festival... by a hiking group?  I don't know how many people asked us whether we liked the ham.  Luckily, I did, because I think it may have broken their hearts if I had said 'no.'
• Apparently, students offer jamón to their teachers as a bribe, when they want to pass a test.
• My parents are coming to visit, and about 6 different people have told me that I have to get them to try jamón.
• One Spanish friend joked about using jamón as a method to convince another friend to let him marry her sister.
• And then there's this tv ad for Navidul hams, which shows the consequences of buying a bad ham (apparently, it can follow you for a lifetime).

However, much remains to be learned.  Thankfully, I still have 5 more months here!

Let There Be Lisbon (5)

Our last day in Lisbon!  Nooo... we still felt like there was a lot more that we could see.  Anyway, our puente (long weekend) was running out, so we had to head back to Spain.

First, we had to do a quick trip back to the cool street we had found the previous night, when we went in search of food.  I hadn't taken my camera on that outing, and I really wanted a photo of these cool buildings.

Near-ish Saldahna metro stop.

We suddenly had the brilliant idea of going back to Cais do Sodré before getting the airport bus, despite not having much time.  


So, we hop on a random bus, and ask the driver for an airport ticket (supposed to cover all buses for 24 hours).  He doesn't speak English.  I try to say 'airport' in Spanish.  He says, 'no, airport's that way.'  Man behind us speaks (some English).  We try to say 'day pass.'  He says we have to get off at the next stop.  We say 'never mind, we'll just pay to go to Cais do Sodré.'  They say 'no, no, we'll drop you off at the next stop, then you go to the Metro stop, and buy one.'  
At this point, we give up on trying to explain what we actually want, and just decide to cross the road and  go straight to the airport.


Since we have time to fill in, we see a couple of interesting things:

• tuna pate,
• 'sexy paper' in the loos.

We get to Madrid, get the metro to a completely random place (Nuevos Ministerios) and emerge, in search of food (again).  Café y Té came to the rescue once again, and one of Jess' friends came to meet up with us.  

Before we knew it, it was time to head to Estacion Sur for the bus.  By 11pm, we were safe and sound, back in La Caro.

Portugal: 

Let There Be Lisbon (4)

...

Well, this day was a dead loss, as I somehow got food poisoning, and didn't have the strength to leave the hotel room.

Jess did something interesting, though; and something not for the faint-hearted.  She got a bus to Evora, a nearby province of Portugal, and saw the Capela dos Ossos: a chapel made out of human bones.

Apparently, this was the skeleton of one of the guys who built the place.

Yes, that is right.  Human bones.  According to Sacred Destinations, the chapel was created by some Fransiscan monks in the 16th century, because the cemeteries were getting full.  Instead of just storing the bones somewhere, the monks decided to use them (skulls and all) to build the chapel.  Apparently, it was 'an opportunity to contemplate and communicate the inevitability of death.'  The estimated number of skeletons used to build the chapel is 5000.

Normal-looking... except the skulls along the edge of each panel.